Big Bend National Park, here we come! Backpacking the beautiful Chisos Mountains backcountry and summiting the highest peak in the park, Emory Peak.

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It's 4 am as we start our 10+ hour drive toward West Texas, and there are hardly any cars on the highway. In fact, it's still dark as we pull into Katy's Buccee's parking lot to grab a coffee, breakfast items, and some tasty road snacks. I'm a sucker for their caramel corn and Rice Krispy treats. 

But there is no time to waste. We have to reach the park before the Chisos Mountain Visitor Center closes for the evening. We need to ask about trail updates and visit the park store to buy the celebratory Dos XX for gal pal A.R., Ranch Water for me, and a sleeping bag for gal pal A.S. (She didn't bring one, and the temps were predicted for the mid-20s.)

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Then head over to the Amphitheater parking area to begin hiking the 2.2 miles (elevation gain 834') to our first backcountry campsite before dark. 

Since I hike slowly with substantial elevation gains, about 0.8-0.9mph with a 28 lbs backpack (this includes 4L of water, food, and winter gear), and take pictures along the way, I know the trek will take about 1.50-2 hours. 

Upon reaching camp just before sunset, we quickly pitched our tents, enjoyed the magnificent view of the mountains, and anxiously awaited the first stars of the evening. And the night sky did not disappoint. I haven't seen that many stars in a long time. 

I so wanted to stay up late and enjoy the stars, but we had to wake up early to hike back down the mountain to resupply our food, water, and hike Grapevine Hills to Balance Rock in the morning. 

Day 2 of the Big Bend Adventure…

While setting up camp the previous night, one of the gal pals, realized she had forgotten to pack her sleeping bag (it was 27° that first night). Things like this happen sometimes. Making the best of it, she wore all her clothes to bed and wrapped up in a couple of emergency blankets. 

After breakfast and donning our day packs, we trekked back down the mountain, and our first stop was the Chisos Basin store again to grab another sleeping bag, it’s a good thing the store had plenty in stock, before heading over the Grapevine Hills to Balanced Rock Trail. 

Once reaching the car, we refilled our water bottles and then drove the 13 miles to the trailhead. Don't let the distance fool you; this is a 45+ minute drive. Grapevine Hills Trailhead is found at the end of a 7-mile narrow, somewhat bumpy, and large-rutted dirt road. 

The trail is a short one, only about 2 miles roundtrip, but bring plenty of water and wear some sort of sun protection. There is no shade along this sandy trail. And even during the winter months, it's a bit warm.  

But the view of the balanced rock and the surrounding scenery is worth the trek along the sandy trail and quick 0.25-mile scramble to the summit. 

Although, be prepared to wait in line to get a picture at Balanced Rock; this is one busy and well-trafficked trail. 

After spending a few hours marveling at the rocky terrain, snapping countless pictures, and enjoying the scenery, we make our way back to the Chisos Basin Visitor Center to enjoy a meal at the Lodge Restaurant. 

After dinner, we parked the car back at the Amphitheater parking area, grabbed our resupply of food and water (3L for me), and began the hike back up the mountain. 

Time to get some rest; it's gonna be a long day. We have to change campsites in the morning, moving from Boulder Meadows to the Pinnacles before tackling the ever-popular and very challenging Emory Peak, the highest point, 7825’, in Big Bend National Park. 

It’s Day 3 of our Big Bend Adventure…

And we are moving farther up the mountain. It’s not as cold as the previous night, but the temps are still hovering in the mid-30s. 

Slowly rousing, not wanting to climb out of my warm sleeping bag, I wonder what the hike to Emory Peak will be like. 

Packing up our gear and eating a quick breakfast, we make our way up to the Pinnacles backcountry sites. It is only about a mile, but with an elevation gain of 1,000 feet and just under 30 lbs on my back, which 8 of those pounds are 4L of water, it will take us about an hour to get there. 

But little did I know the Pinnacles backcountry sites are downhill from the fork leading up to the Emory Peak trail. While it's only about 15-20' in elevation loss, it does get my heart rate up when we head back up.

Unloading our gear, placing our food and extra water in the bear boxes, and Angie R. switching to a lightweight day pack, we make our way another mile and 755' up the mountain to the Emory Peak Trailhead.

Now that we are well-rested, we place A.S's backpack in the large bear boxes provided, her bottle of water in A. R's day pack, and begin the hard part, the last 1.5 miles. It will take us 2.45 hours to hike to the notch before the summit. 

As we wind our way around the mountain, marveling at the scenic vista expanding before us, we get our first glimpse of the peak and a lot of rocky terrain. As we get closer, the topography turns to a rugged uphill crawl making the scramble to Balanced Rock feel like my childhood jungle gym.  

I wouldn't call these last few feet a scramble, but more like mountain climbing. Along some portions, since I'm pretty short and A. R. smaller than me, we had to use our upper body strength to pull ourselves up the boulders. 

While there is a fantastic 360° of the landscape, the large solar panel and antenna distract from the view. Plus, there isn't much room to maneuver at the summit. 

After taking a celebratory shot of Fireball, I lead the way back down. And it is much harder going down than it was going up. Since we are so petite, finding footholds was precarious. This is one summit that is a one-and-done for me. I'll let the younger generations mountain climb to the summit, I'll enjoy the view from the notch. 

This will be our last night on the mountain, and as we reminisce about our adventure and the crazy a$$ climb to Emory Peak, we are looking forward to a leisurely stroll along the Santa Elena Canyon before heading home. 

Day 4 of the Big Bend Backpacking Adventure…

It’s our last day at the park, and the overnight temps finally reached the mid-forties. It’s nice to wake up and not have to put on what feels like 10 lbs of winter clothing to stay warm. 

We pack our backpacks quickly, take one last look around our campsite to make sure we leave nothing behind, then begin our almost 3-mile descent down the mountain. It will take us roughly 2 hours to get back to the Amphitheater Parking Area. 

Hiking up all those stairs with a 30lb pack was hard but trekking down all those stairs had us going slow as well. Plus, there were so many deer along the pathway we had to stop, watch them meander next to the trail, and take more pics of them. 

Upon reaching the car, we changed from our hiking boots to our comfy driving shoes and then cleaned up in the campground restrooms. Showers will have to wait until we get home; there aren't any showers available at the campground. 

But before heading home, there is one last stop for us, the Santa Elena Canyon. 

The hour-long drive along the Ross Maxell Scenic Drive to the canyon is so scenic A. S. stopped several times to take a quick pic. 

We luckily arrived at the canyon just as someone was pulling out of a parking space. There aren't many spaces available, and the line of cars stretched about .5 miles from the trailhead. 

The trail isn't very long, about 1.5 miles, but if water levels are up, you will have to wade through the water to get to the rest of the trail. Then it has a steep paved incline to a small viewing area before descending farther into the canyon.

It's a picture-perfect place to end our backpacking adventure. 

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Wrapping Up

Most people like to stay in the main camping areas within a state or national park, although for me, camping in the backcountry sites is more peaceful and relaxing. But summiting Emory Peak, the highest peak in Big Bend National Park at 7825', is one physically demanding and formidable hike and should not be taken lightly. 

The trail is only about 10 miles long roundtrip with steep inclines, rocky terrain, and scrabble, making it one labor-intensive hike. Camping near the peak helps us slow hikers enjoy summiting these magnificent vistas but without the long hours of a day hike.

Be sure to listen to all the ranger's recommendations, safety protocols, and backcountry camping regulations. Everyone wants their hike and/or backcountry trip to be a safe and enjoyable one. 

Don’t forget the get travel insurance when you’re planning your big trip. Flight delays, cancellations, and accidents do happen on the trail. Get a quote from InsureMyTrip.com

Have you hiked or camped in the backcountry site in Big Bend National Park? Share your experience in the comments.

Catch y'all next time, and as always, let's take all the side roads together and enjoy the views along the way.

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