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Hiking The Laugavegur Trail In Iceland

A hiking adventure to one of the globe's most breathtaking paths in the realm of Fire and Ice, the Laugavegur Trail, in Iceland.

Iceland showcases a remarkably varied landscape. And, the hiking route from Landmannalaugar to Thórsmörk stands out as among Iceland's most sought-after hiking trails. It was also recognized, by National Geographic, as one of the world's most stunning trails in the world.

Just a three-hour drive from the Dalur Hostel and Campground, we're maximizing the benefit of the nearly continuous daylight available for exploration of Landmannalaugar before starting the hiking trail.

The Laugavegur Trail does not disappoint and keeps you captivated as you traverse rugged obsidian lava fields, vividly colorful rhyolite mountains, steaming hot springs, expansive black sandy deserts, and crystal-clear lakes reflecting like mirrors, then culminates in lush, forested greenery.

The Laugavegur Trail In Iceland - Know Before You Go

1: Access to the Laugavegur Trail has a short window, typically from mid-June to mid-September. Beyond these months, reaching the trail's start and end points is too challenging, and depending on the summer weather conditions, completing the Laugavegur Trail within this timeframe typically takes between three to five days.

This linear hiking trail offers two options: starting in Landmannalaugar and ending in Thórsmörk (north-south), or vice versa. The preferred route is north to south, as Landmannalaugar boasts an elevation around 300m (984’) higher than Thórsmörk. Regardless of the direction chosen, both points are easily reachable by 4-wheel drive from Reykjavik.

2: Although the Laugavegur Trail is beginner-friendly, proper preparation is key. The hiking trail presents a moderate to challenging terrain, demanding stamina and a somewhat good fitness level. You should be prepared for daily hikes lasting between 5 to 8 hours. Familiarize yourself with your hiking pace to gauge arrival times at each campsite.

3: In contrast to wild camping along the AT, CDT, PCT, or other long-distance trails in the US, the 34-mile Laugavegur Trail offers designated camping areas featuring tent campsites and huts. No permits are required. for camping, hut accommodations fill quickly and are obtained through the Iceland Touring Association (FÍ), which manages 40 mountain huts across Iceland, including those along the popular Laugavegur trail.

Given the high demand for hut accommodations, it's advisable to book your lodging well in advance. However, tent camping remains accessible without requiring a reservation.

Additionally, all camping areas are changing to a cashless basis. Remember to have your credit card on hand, or utilize payment methods such as Apple Pay or Google Pay. When using your credit card, Apple Pay, or Google Pay, opt to pay in Icelandic króna (ISK) to save on currency conversion fees.

4: Get acquainted with your hiking and backpacking gear. Practice using your camp stove, packing your camping gear into your backpack inside the tent, and setting up and taking down your tent. I relied on the lightweight and budget-friendly Naturehike VIK 1-person tent during my 4-month journey through the UK and Iceland. You'll discover most of the gear I relied on during the hiking adventure on my Amazon Storefront.

5: Throughout the summer, Reykjavik Excursion buses operate from Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar and Thórsmörk twice a day, once in the morning and once in the afternoon. These services typically commence in mid to late June and are contingent upon weather conditions.

If you’re camping in Reykjavik, schedule your pickup and dropoff to and from the trailhead from the Dalur Hostel/Campground. The pickup area is approximately 30’ from the front door.

Purchase a one-way ticket to Landmannalaugar with a return ticket from Þórsmörk Básar or vice versa.

6: When you arrive from the airport at the BSI Bus Terminal in Reykjavik, before purchasing a fuel canister from the small camp store within the terminal, consider checking for leftover ones at the Dalur Campgrounds. Many backpackers leave unused and partially filled gas canisters and surplus food on the For Free Shelves next to the outdoor sinks in the courtyard.

If there isn’t a fuel canister available on the For Free Shelf, there are several camping and recreation stores in Reykjavik where you can purchase one. Or you can pick one up at the Outdoor Mall in Landmannalaugar.

But make sure the threads on the fuel canister are compatible with your camp stove before starting the hiking trail.

7: Secure your travel essentials and luggage at a long-term storage facility. Lockers are available at the BSI Bus Terminal, but the storage lockers tend to fill up rapidly. I stayed at the Dalur Hostel/Campground and stored my luggage and other belongings I did not take on the trail. Their storage facility is affordably priced and conveniently accessible all day by simply requesting assistance from a front desk staff member.

8: If you plan on doing some sightseeing I recommend renting a car for a day. It's more affordable than you might think. I rented a compact car from Blue Car Rentals, instead of opting for the Golden Circle Tour, which entails eight hours of mostly drive time with brief stops at Gullfoss, the Geyser, and Thingviller National Park.

Renting a car provides the freedom to spend more time at these stunning locations and make stops along the scenic route to capture photos or perhaps interact with the friendly Icelandic horses. Furthermore, during the summer months, daylight persists for nearly 24 hours, offering ample time for exploration.

However, unlike the US practice of swiping our credit/debit card at the pump, payment for gas should be made inside the station. This prevents a significant dollar amount purchase hold on your card, which may take up to 7 days to be released.

9: Prepare for sudden temperature changes by packing your winter hiking gear. Despite warm summers elsewhere, the Laugavegur Trail is known for unpredictable weather shifts leading to drastic temperature changes; expect large ice patches, permafrost, chilly wind gusts, and rainy weather which necessitate appropriate winter hiking attire.

10: Before embarking on your journey, it's crucial to review the weather forecast. In the event of an impending storm, if feasible, consider postponing your trip for a day or two.

Additionally, consult the weather report displayed each day, it’s located at each hut's check-in station. This report will also provide updates on potential obstacles such as broken bridges, flash floods, volcanic activity, or rock/mudslides.

Looking for more inspiration to hit the trails? Check out my book, Wander, Wonder, and Wellness: Hiking Your Way to Health and Happiness, available now on Amazon—it’s packed with tips, stories, and motivation to make every hike a transformative experience!

The Hike Journal - Exploring The Golden Circle and Hiking the Laugavegur Trail

Following that, I proceeded to obtain my entrance visa, passport stamp, and retrieve my backpack and suitcase. Yet, I couldn't shake my curiosity about the commotion. I guess I’ll never know what the hullabaloo was all about.

Since I'd be staying in Iceland for quite a while—44 days to be exact—I had my hiking and backpacking gear and a large suitcase, containing an entire wardrobe. Without delay, I headed to the Dalur Hostel/Campground to store my belongings in their long-term storage room. Their storage facility is affordably priced and conveniently accessible all day by simply requesting assistance from a front desk staff member.

I pitched my tent in their campground, where I planned to stay for a couple of days before being joined by two friends at Hotel Vera in Downtown Reykjavik.

Flying in from London, just a 3-hour flight away and only an hour time difference, I didn't experience any jetlag. I planned for some solo sightseeing and to my surprise, I discovered that a friend from Boston was also in the country at the same time. We seized the opportunity to get together and embark on a tour of the Golden Circle.

I recommend renting a car for a day, I rented from Blue Car Rentals, instead of opting for the Golden Circle Tour, which entails eight hours of mostly drive time with brief stops at Gullfoss, the Geyser, and Thingviller National Park. Renting a car provided the freedom to spend more time at these stunning locations and make stops along the scenic route to capture photos and perhaps interact with the friendly Icelandic horses. Furthermore, during the summer months, daylight persists for nearly 24 hours, offering ample time for exploration.

Visiting these incredibly scenic places is just the beginning, and I find myself utterly captivated as I eagerly anticipate uncovering more awe-inspiring sights on the Laugavegur Trail.

Before we begin the 34-mile trek to Thórsmörk we're seizing the opportunity of the almost continuous daylight to explore Landmannalaugar, grab some snacks and an Icelandic Hotdog at the Mountain Mall, and unwind in the hot spring, before commencing our journey.

Our initial stretch leads us to Hrafntinnusker, a demanding 7.5-mile hike with an elevation gain of approximately 1400 feet through rugged lava fields.

Despite the demanding six-hour hike to our campsite, we understand this leg as the toughest part of our adventure - from here it's mostly downhill. Nevertheless, the awe-inspiring vistas along the path make every step worthwhile.

Though my plan was to tent camp the entire trail, my hiking companion Maria and I decided to try our luck for a spot in the Hrafntinnusker hut. Surprisingly, despite typically being fully booked months ahead, they had vacancies available for us on the upper floor. What a stroke of luck!

After a challenging 12 km (7.5-mile) hike, the cozy refuge of the Hrafntinnusker hut offered us weary hikers a haven of comfort, ensuring we were awakened refreshed and invigorated for the journey ahead.

Though staying in the hut comes with a price tag of about $90, the experience proves invaluable. We talked with 2 Icelandic mothers who navigate the rugged Laugavegur Trail terrain with their adventurous little ones who are both younger than 10. Those kids inspire awe and admiration in many fellow hikers along the trail.

As we meet other hikers from across the globe, we exchange tales of past journeys, divulging favorite hiking trails from our homelands and beyond, and gather priceless insights and tips for hiking in various regions - it's an enriching experience.

We still have ample daylight to enjoy the beauty of our surroundings, for tomorrow marks our journey to Álftavatn.

Day 2: Hiking from Hrafntinnusker To Álftavatn - Laugavegur Trail

Today we embark on another 12 km (7.5-mile) trek to the Álftavatn hut, We eagerly anticipate another remarkable hike through Iceland's breathtaking landscapes.

Álftavatn is a hidden gem nestled beside a picturesque alpine lake. This leg of the hike offers yet another day to immerse ourselves in an unforgettable hiking experience amidst the splendor of Iceland's natural wonders.

Although the amazing experience of staying in the Hrafntinnusker hut, the remaining huts along the Laugavegur Trail are smaller and frequently fully booked months in advance, this emphasizes the hiking trail’s immense popularity among trekkers and tour groups.

Starting our next leg of the adventure, we encounter a changing landscape. Navigating this portion of the trail presents its challenges, with many short but steep gullies testing my endurance and at times my patience, walking over permafrost and icy patches requiring caution, and our first major water crossing demands slow and careful navigation amidst the fast-flowing, frigid waters.

But the rugged lava fields from Landmannalagar slowly yield awe-inspiring views, chilly but revigorating mountain streams, and the hiking trail is punctuated by small bubbling geysers and turquoise pools of water.

During the summer, abundant daylight offers ample chances for photographing the panorama of colorful hills and streams and for serene moments of contemplation amidst the beauty of nature.

However, the Icelandic scenery is mesmerizing, and overcoming each obstacle instills quite a feeling of achievement.

As we trek onward from the water crossing, the rain begins, but with only 3.2 km (approximately 2 miles) left to Álftavatn, it's becoming visible in the distance. Despite the rainy and foggy weather upon arrival, Álftavatn unfolds its tranquil allure, albeit partially concealed by the elements. Nevertheless, it provides abundant space for pitching tents and features a cozy hut and restaurant for shelter.

After carefully selecting a tent site free of rocks and potential water accumulation, we quickly set up our shelter and changed into dry attire.

While Álftavatn offers hot showers for a small fee, be prepared for potentially long queues. However, there are plenty of flushing toilets available, along with a spacious countertop sink area for washing cooking pots and utensils.

Following our changing into dry clothing, we venture to the restaurant for a comforting bowl of hot soup—trust me, the tomato soup is simply divine—charge our devices, and mingle with fellow hikers to swap tales of triumph and tribulation, sharing laughter and wisdom as we forge lasting bonds amidst the rugged beauty of the Laugavegur Trail. Oh, and I couldn't resist snagging a Laugavegur Trail t-shirt and patch as souvenirs of this remarkable journey.

Besides sitting by the tranquil lake, hikers can seek solace and tranquility on adjacent hiking paths and immerse themselves in sweeping panoramic views.

Following dinner and lively conversations with fellow trekkers, I retreat to my tent. Armed with my trusty sleep mask and an engaging audiobook. I ease into a rejuvenating night's sleep, ready to embrace the adventures of the next day.

Day 3: Hiking from Álftavatn To Emstrur - Laugavegur Trail

On our third day of trekking the Laugavegur Trail, we're covering a distance of 15km (9.5 miles) to reach our next camping spot at Emstrur.

While the rain has ceased, lingering fog shrouds the lake, unfortunately obscuring its picturesque view.

Following a light breakfast of oats, I gathered my gear, packed up my wet tent, bid farewell to fellow hikers, and my hiking buddy and I set off with anticipation for the upcoming stretch of the trail.

Luckily, today's hike promises to be less challenging, with only a slight elevation loss of 41m (66'). After the demanding hiking sections of the past two days, I’m quite relieved for the respite.

As we start today’s hike towards Emstrur, we encounter multiple water crossings along the trail. While small bridges simplify some, the other crossings require us to wade through the streams, and our feet get a chilly plunge in the frigid water.

I'm pleased to share that today's hike was notably easier. The terrain was predominantly flat. This allowed a brisker pace compared to the past days, despite the numerous water crossings and dealing with the need to put on and remove our water shoes. 

Roughly an hour into our hike, the sun emerged from behind the clouds, offering a golden opportunity to unpack my soggy tent from its dry sack. With the sun’s rays radiating warmth, I swiftly began the task of drying out the lingering dampness, the drying process was fairly quick, ensuring comfort for the upcoming night.

Additionally, we were greeted by charming pink flowers adorning the path and adding a scenic charm to the seemingly never-ending stretch of hiking trail.

After trekking for about 6 hours, we catch sight of Emstrur for the first time. The camping grounds here are multi-tiered, and we opt for a cozy spot on one of the lower levels, just beneath the hut. As the rain clouds begin to gather, I hurriedly pitch my tent to outpace the impending precipitation. Then we stroll up to the tented picnic area to prepare dinner, unwind, and engage in conversation with fellow hikers, just as the rain begins to fall.

Our hiking adventure draws to a close tomorrow as we set our sights on Thórsmörk for the final leg of our journey.

Day 4: Hiking from Emstrur to Thórsmörk - Laugavegur Trail

On our final day, we have a 15km (9.5 miles) stretch ahead of us, marking the conclusion of our journey along the Laugavegur Trail.

The morning at Emstrur greets us with brilliant sunshine, casting a golden glow over the landscape. However, amidst the beauty, I encountered what could have been a major mishap during last night's rainstorm. Because of the rain's direction and my tent's positioning, water began to accumulate between the footprint and the tent's bottom. To prevent any moisture from seeping in, I ingeniously repurposed my Mylar emergency blanket, fashioning a makeshift bathtub inside the tent to safeguard myself and all my gear from the wetness.

Descending towards Thórsmörk, we encounter yet another series of steep descents, adding a final challenge to our hiking adventure the view, however, is positively stunning.

As we descend, the sound of rushing water fills the air, but fortunately, but fortunately, a bridge spans the tumultuous flow. Following the bridge, the trail levels out once more prompting us to pick up our hiking pace in a bid to cover more ground before lunch. Our goal is to reach Thórsmörk before the last bus departs for the evening. 

After a brief lunch break, consisting of mashed potatoes, Pringles, and a granola bar, we catch sight of the lush greenery of Thórsmörk. Ahead lies our final water crossing, the widest one yet. Once we navigate this stream, we'll be just 1.5km (1 mile) away from the finish line, Thórsmörk Basar campground.

Wrapping Up: Hiking The Laugavegur Trail

Embarking on Iceland's Laugavegur Trail, we traverse diverse landscapes, from Landmannalagar to Thórsmörk.

Despite challenges, stunning vistas and camaraderie make it unforgettable. After exploring Landmannalagar, we tackle the challenging hike to Hrafntinnusker, finding refuge in the cozy hut.

Day 2 brings us to Álftavatn, where rain can't dampen the tranquility.

Day 3 sees us trekking to Emstrur, overcoming water crossings, and enjoying easier terrain.

Finally, on Day 4, we reach Thórsmörk, concluding our adventure. As friends depart, I eagerly anticipate further exploration, grateful for this unforgettable journey. Check out my Amazon Storefront for hiking essentials!

Want to know what I bring along when I’m out exploring bucket-list hiking adventures? Check out my Amazon Storefront for a complete list of hiking and backpacking essentials.

Remember to secure travel insurance, it comes at a surprisingly affordable price. and protects you from flight delays, tour cancellations, and accidents that occur on the trail. Get a quote from InsureMyTrip before your big trip.

See you next time, and as usual, let's explore the trails together and enjoy the views along the way.

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